Russia · Trackside classic

Pyshki

St Petersburg sugared ring doughnuts

Small, light yeast doughnut rings fried until crisp and golden outside, soft and airy inside, and buried in powdered sugar while still hot. Eaten standing up, with milky coffee.

Pyshki

In St Petersburg a doughnut is a pyshka, and a place that sells them is a pyshechnaya. Muscovites say ponchik for the same thing, a difference of vocabulary that the two cities hold onto with some pride. The most famous pyshechnaya, on Bolshaya Konyushennaya Street just off Nevsky Prospect, has been frying them since Soviet times with a single item on the menu, a queue out of the door and an interior that has barely changed since it opened.

A pyshka is a plain yeast dough ring, fried until it puffs and crisps, then rolled in a snowfall of powdered sugar. There is no glaze, no filling and no sprinkles: the pleasure is in the contrast between the thin, crackly shell and the light, slightly chewy inside. The custom is to order them by the half dozen on a paper plate with a glass of sweet, milky coffee and eat them at a standing table, getting sugar on everything.

They are made from a very simple dough and cost almost nothing, which may be why nobody can stop at one. At home they turn a race morning into an event.

The dough

Ingredients

Shaping

Ingredients

Frying and sugaring

Ingredients

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