Russia · Drinks and cocktails

Kvas

Homemade rye bread kvass

Dark rye bread toasted almost black, steeped in hot water, then lightly fermented with sugar, a pinch of yeast and a few raisins into a cool, malty, gently fizzy drink, sweet and sour at once.

Kvas

Kvass is what happens when a thrifty kitchen refuses to waste stale bread. Dark rye is toasted until nearly black, soaked in hot water, then fermented briefly with sugar and yeast into a drink that tastes of malt, caramel and toasted crust, with a sharp, refreshing edge. It has been made in Russia for many centuries, and the old saying about living on bread and kvass describes the plainest possible diet. It contains only a trace of alcohol, usually around one percent or less, so it is treated as a soft drink and given to children.

In Soviet summers, yellow tank barrels of kvass on wheels stood on street corners, with long queues of thirsty people holding mugs and jars, and kvass is still the base of okroshka, the cold summer soup. Making it at home takes two days, though almost all of that is waiting. The first evening the bread soaks; the next day it ferments; then it chills. The reward is a jug of something no supermarket version quite matches, ready for a hot afternoon in front of the race.

The bread infusion

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Slice the bread about 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) thick and lay the slices on the baking sheet. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, turning them once, until very dark and completely dry. Watch the last 5 minutes closely.
  2. Bring the water to a boil. Break the toasted bread into pieces and put them in the large container. Pour the boiling water over, push the bread under with the ladle, cover with the towel and leave at room temperature overnight, or for at least 8 hours.
  3. Pour the liquid through the sieve lined with cheesecloth into the large bowl or jug. Gather the cheesecloth around the bread and squeeze gently to get most of the liquid out, then throw the bread away. Rinse the container and pour the liquid back in.

Fermenting and bottling

Ingredients

Method

  1. Check the bread liquid with the thermometer; it must be no warmer than 95°F (35°C) or it will kill the yeast. Stir in all but 1 teaspoon of the sugar until it dissolves.
  2. In the small bowl, stir the yeast and the remaining teaspoon of sugar into the warm water and leave for 10 minutes.
  3. Stir the yeast mixture into the sweetened liquid and add the tablespoon of raisins and the mint, if using. Cover with the towel, secured with the rubber band, and leave at room temperature, ideally 68 to 77°F (20 to 25°C), for 8 to 12 hours.
  4. Skim off the foam and strain the kvass again through the clean cheesecloth. Put 2 or 3 raisins in each bottle and fill using the funnel, leaving about 2 inches (5 cm) of space at the top. Screw on the caps and refrigerate for 1 to 3 days. Once a day, unscrew each cap slowly to let out excess gas, then close it again.

More from Russia

Scroll to Top