Russia · Signature dish

Kulebyaka

Layered salmon, rice, egg and mushroom pie in a soft yeast crust

A long, golden, braided loaf of soft butter yeast dough wrapped around layers of dill rice, buttery mushrooms and onion, chopped egg and pink salmon. Sliced at the table, it shows every stripe of its filling.

Kulebyaka

Kulebyaka is the grandest of the Russian pirogi, the family of filled pies and loaves that every Russian kitchen bakes. What sets it apart is ambition: rather than one filling it holds several, laid in neat strata so that each slice reveals a cross section of fish, rice, egg and mushrooms, and the filling outweighs the crust. Nineteenth century writers adored it. Gogol and Turgenev praised it, and Chekhov gave one a famously greedy, mouthwatering passage in a short story.

Fish versions were especially important on the many fast days of the Orthodox calendar, when meat was off the table, and grand houses filled theirs with sturgeon and vesiga, the dried spinal cord of the sturgeon, an ingredient now mostly confined to history books. French chefs who cooked for the Russian aristocracy took the idea home, and Auguste Escoffier included it in his famous guide under the French name coulibiac.

This home version uses salmon, which is easy to find, a soft butter yeast dough, and the old trick of laying a thin pancake beneath the filling to keep the base crisp. It is a project for a long afternoon, and it rewards the effort with the kind of centerpiece that makes a race weekend feel like a feast.

The yeast dough

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The rice with dill

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The mushrooms and onion

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The salmon and eggs

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Assembly and baking

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