Russia · Trackside classic

Chebureki

Crisp fried meat turnovers

Big, thin, blistered half moons of fried dough around juicy beef and onion, the street snack of Russia's Black Sea summer.

Chebureki

Chebureki came into Russian cooking from the Crimean Tatars, and over the twentieth century they spread across the Caucasus, Central Asia and Eastern Europe as one of the great street snacks. A single round of thin, unleavened dough is folded over a layer of seasoned minced meat and onion, sealed into a large half moon and fried until the surface bubbles and blisters. Along the Black Sea coast they are a classic beach holiday snack, sold hot to people in swimwear who know they should wait before swimming and rarely do.

The pleasures are two: the crackle of the shell and the little rush of broth inside, which comes from water mixed into the raw filling. Bite carefully. Our version uses a splash of vodka in the dough, an old trick that makes it fry crisper and lighter; it cooks off entirely, and plain vinegar does the same job.

The dough

Ingredients

Method

  1. Mix the flour and salt in the large bowl. Stir the oil and vodka into the hot water, pour into the flour and stir with a fork until shaggy. Leave 2 minutes until cool enough to handle.
  2. Knead on a lightly floured surface for 5 minutes, then wrap and rest for 30 minutes.

The filling

Ingredients

Method

  1. In the medium bowl, mix the beef, onion, herbs, salt and pepper with your hand. Add the cold water a little at a time, squeezing the meat through your fingers until it absorbs it all. Chill until needed.

Shaping and frying

Ingredients

Method

  1. Divide the dough into 8 pieces and keep them covered. Roll one into a thin circle a little larger than the plate, about 1/16 inch (2 mm) thick, then cut around the plate for a neat 7 inch (18 cm) round.
  2. Spread about 3 tablespoons of filling in a thin, even layer over one half of the round, leaving a 1/2 inch (1 cm) border. Fold the other half over, press out the air from the middle toward the edge, then press the edges together firmly and crimp them with a fork.
  3. Heat the oil in the skillet to 350°F (175°C). Fry one or two at a time for 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning carefully with the spatula and tongs.
  4. Stand them upright on the rack or lay them on paper towels so the oil drains away. Shape the next ones while the first fry.

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