Israel · Drinks and cocktails

Sahlab

Hot, thick milk drink with rose water, coconut and pistachios

Hot milk thickened until it is velvety and spoonable, scented with vanilla and rose or orange blossom water and finished with cinnamon, coconut and chopped pistachios.

Sahlab

Sahlab, which Israelis usually call sachlav, is the winter drink of the whole eastern Mediterranean: hot milk, sweetened and thickened until it is somewhere between a drink and a pudding, scented with rose or orange blossom water and crowned with cinnamon, nuts and coconut. Its name comes from salep, a flour ground from the dried tubers of wild orchids, which gives the drink its silky, slightly stretchy body. The habit is old. Orchid drinks were known to the ancient Greeks and Romans, and in seventeenth and eighteenth century England a version called saloop was sold as a cheap rival to coffee and tea.

Real salep is now scarce and expensive, because demand has stripped wild orchids from hillsides in Turkey, Greece and Iran, and Turkey forbids its export. Most sahlab today, at home and from the market stalls and bakeries of Jerusalem and Jaffa, is thickened with cornstarch instead, which is kinder to the orchids and very nearly as good. It is the drink for a cold, wet qualifying session: ten minutes at the stove, one pan, and a mug that keeps hands warm long after the session has ended.

The sahlab

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pour 1/2 cup (120 ml) of the cold milk into the small bowl, add the cornstarch and whisk or stir with a fork until completely smooth.
  2. Pour the remaining 3 1/2 cups (840 ml) of milk into the saucepan, add the sugar and salt, and set over medium heat. Whisk now and then until the sugar dissolves and the milk is hot.
  3. Stir the starch mixture again, because it settles quickly, and pour it into the hot milk in a thin stream while whisking constantly. Keep whisking, reaching into the corners of the pan, for 3 to 5 minutes as it comes back to a gentle bubble.
  4. Take the pan off the heat and whisk in the vanilla and 1/2 teaspoon of rose or orange blossom water. Taste and add more flower water, a few drops at a time, and more sugar if you like. If it is thicker than you want, whisk in a little more hot milk.

The toppings

Ingredients

Method

  1. Before you start the milk, put the coconut in the dry frying pan over medium low heat and stir constantly for 2 to 3 minutes. Tip it into a bowl straight away so it does not keep browning.
  2. Ladle the hot sahlab into the mugs or glasses. Dust each with cinnamon, then scatter over the toasted coconut, chopped pistachios and raisins or dates if using.

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