Israel · Regional favorite

Kugel Yerushalmi

Jerusalem kugel: caramelized noodle cake with black pepper

Thin egg noodles tossed in dark caramel and a startling amount of black pepper, bound with eggs and baked into a glossy, mahogany cake that is sweet, peppery and chewy all at once: Jerusalem's own Sabbath kugel.

Kugel Yerushalmi

Kugel is the baked pudding of the Ashkenazi kitchen, usually made from noodles or potatoes and usually either sweet or savory. The Jerusalem version refuses to choose. It was created by the city's Ashkenazi community, who took the noodle kugel of Eastern Europe and gave it two ingredients that were far easier to come by in the Middle East than in the old country: sugar cooked to a dark caramel and black pepper, used generously. The noodles are coated in the caramel, peppered, bound with eggs and baked until the outside is crisp and the inside chewy and glossy brown.

The first bite is sweet, the second is warm, and by the third the pepper has your full attention. Kugel Yerushalmi is served on the Sabbath and on Jewish holidays, and it has long since travelled beyond the city to Ashkenazi tables everywhere. It contains no dairy, so it sits at a meat meal without any fuss, and it slices cleanly, cold or warm, which makes it excellent food to hand round during a race.

The noodles and caramel

Ingredients

Binding and baking

Ingredients

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