Israel · Regional favorite

Kubbeh hamusta

Sour lemon soup with semolina dumplings stuffed with beef

Soft semolina dumplings filled with spiced beef and herbs, simmered in a bright, sharp lemon broth with celery, chard and zucchini: the Kurdish and Iraqi Jewish soup that has become a favorite of Jerusalem's small family restaurants.

Kubbeh hamusta

Kubbeh is a family of dumplings with a thin outer shell around a spiced meat filling, and the version that won Israel's heart is the soup kind. It arrived with the Jews of Iraq and Kurdistan who settled in Israel, and in their kitchens the shells are made from semolina, filled with beef, onion and herbs, and dropped into a simmering broth. Hamusta, as its name suggests, is the sour one: a pale golden green soup, sharp with lemon, full of celery, chard and soft zucchini, with the dumplings bobbing in it.

In Jerusalem it is served in small family restaurants, and it is the kind of bowl that makes strangers at the next table nod in approval. Shaping kubbeh is a skill that grandmothers make look effortless and everyone else learns with practice; a little cold water on your hands and a relaxed approach to perfection are the secrets. The first few will be lumpy, the last few elegant, and the broth will not mind either way.

The semolina dough

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The beef filling

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Shaping the kubbeh

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The sour soup

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