Arak is the anise spirit of the whole Levant, distilled from grapes and flavored with aniseed in Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, Palestine, Iraq and Israel alike, each with its own proud producers. It is crystal clear in the bottle and turns milky white the moment water or ice touches it, because the anise oil that dissolves happily in alcohol will not stay dissolved in water. Across the region it is usually sipped with water and ice alongside a long table of small dishes.

In Israel the everyday bar order is arak with grapefruit juice, poured long over plenty of ice. It is a beach drink, a balcony drink and a summer evening drink, and the combination is better than it sounds on paper: the sharp, faintly bitter citrus tames the licorice of the anise, and the anise makes the grapefruit taste brighter. It takes two minutes to make and, wisely made weak and tall, keeps a long evening of racing comfortable.

The drink

Ingredients

• 3 large pink or red grapefruits
• 6 oz (180 ml) arak
• 4 cups ice cubes
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) chilled sparkling water
• 4 fresh mint sprigs

Method

1. Before juicing, use the vegetable peeler to take 4 long strips of peel from one grapefruit, pressing lightly so you take only the colored skin.
2. Halve the grapefruits and squeeze the juice. Pour it through the sieve into the pitcher to catch the seeds; a little pulp is fine.
3. Fill each glass to the top with ice. Pour 1 1/2 oz (45 ml) arak into each glass.
4. Top each glass with about 1/2 cup (120 ml) grapefruit juice and stir gently with the long spoon. If you prefer it lighter, add 2 tablespoons sparkling water to each.
5. Twist a strip of grapefruit peel over each glass to release its oil, then drop it in. Clap each mint sprig once between your palms to wake up its scent and tuck it into the glass.

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