Belgium · Sweet finish

Speculoos

Belgian brown sugar spice biscuits

Thin, snapping biscuits of butter and dark brown sugar, warmed with cinnamon and a whisper of clove and ginger: the Belgian Saint Nicholas biscuit, and the thing that comes with every coffee.

Speculoos

Speculoos belong to the whole of the Low Countries, but Belgium has made them its own. The Dutch speculaas is the older, spicier cousin, first recorded in a Haarlem bakers' ordinance in 1749; the Belgian style that grew up in the early twentieth century leans instead on deep, caramel flavored brown sugar, with the spices pulled back to a warm background. Traditionally they are a December treat, baked for Saint Nicholas on the sixth, sometimes pressed into carved wooden molds that leave a picture on every biscuit. In 2020 Brussels added speculoos to its register of intangible cultural heritage.

The secret is the sugar. Belgian bakers use cassonade, a moist brown sugar made from sugar beet, which gives the biscuits their color and their deep caramel flavor. Dark brown sugar is a very close match. The dough is simple, it improves with a night in the fridge, and the biscuits keep for weeks, which makes them an unusually good thing to have in a tin at the end of August, when Spa weather can feel like December anyway.

The dough

Ingredients

Shaping and baking

Ingredients

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