Belgium · Sweet finish

Pain à la grecque

Brussels cinnamon milk bread with a crunchy caramelized sugar crust

Long, flat bars of soft milk bread streaked with brown sugar and cinnamon, baked under a thick coat of coarse sugar until the top crackles and caramelizes: the old Brussels bakery treat that has nothing to do with Greece.

Pain à la grecque

Pain à la grecque translates as Greek bread, and that is the first thing to forget about it. The name is a centuries old mishearing. In the sixteenth century, Augustinian monks in Brussels handed out bread to the poor beside the Wolvengracht, the Wolf Canal, and in the local Flemish dialect a canal was a grecht. The bread became Wolf Grecht bread, and as Brussels turned increasingly French speaking, grecht drifted into grecque, which sounded far more classical and meant nothing at all. Some bakers still use the Flemish name, bread of the canal.

Whatever its name, it is a pleasure to eat: a long, flat rectangle of soft milk bread with ribbons of brown sugar and cinnamon through it, rolled in coarse sugar so that the top bakes into a crisp, crackling, caramelized crust. It belongs to Brussels above all, and it is the kind of thing you buy warm, break in half on the pavement and eat before you have walked a block. At home, it is excellent with coffee during the long stint before the final round of pit stops.

The milk dough

Ingredients

Filling, shaping and the sugar crust

Ingredients

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