Belgium · Signature dish

Moules frites

Steamed mussels with fries

A steaming pot of mussels cooked with butter, onion, celery and parsley, served with golden twice fried fries and the broth for dipping: Belgium's national dish.

Moules frites

Moules frites is the dish Belgians order when they want to feel most Belgian, ideally in a brasserie in Brussels with a cold glass of beer and a pot of mussels so large it comes with its lid upturned as a bowl for the empty shells. The classic preparation, moules nature or marinière, is almost austere: mussels steamed open in their own juices with butter, onion, celery and parsley. The fries, fried twice in the Belgian manner, arrive on the side, and the broth at the bottom of the pot is for dunking them in, or for drinking, depending on the company.

Mussels are cheap, quick and dramatic, and they cook in under ten minutes. The Belgian Grand Prix comes to Spa at the end of summer, as mussel season gets properly under way, so the timing is excellent. Allow about a pound per person as a main course, or two if you are feeding a Belgian.

The fries, first fry

Ingredients

Method

  1. Peel the potatoes and cut into sticks about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) thick. Rinse in a bowl of cold water, drain and dry completely on a clean towel.
  2. Heat the fat in the heavy pot to 300°F (150°C). Fry the potatoes in batches for 6 to 7 minutes each, then lift onto paper towels and leave to cool for at least 20 minutes.

The mussels

Ingredients

Method

  1. Tip the mussels into the colander in the sink and rinse under cold running water. Pull off any beards by tugging them firmly toward the hinge end of the shell. Scrape off any barnacles with the back of the knife. Check each mussel as described above and discard any that are cracked or stay open.
  2. Melt the butter in the very large pot over medium heat. Add the onions, celery and garlic and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring, until soft but not colored. Add the thyme and bay leaf.
  3. Turn the heat to high. Add the mussels and the wine if using, and grind the pepper over them. Put the lid on tightly. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes, holding the lid down and shaking the pot hard every 2 minutes so the mussels on the bottom move to the top.
  4. Scatter the parsley over the mussels and give the pot one last shake. Throw away any mussels that have stayed firmly shut.

The fries, second fry

Ingredients

Method

  1. While the mussels cook, heat the fat to 350°F (175°C) and fry the blanched potatoes in batches for 2 to 3 minutes until golden and crisp. Drain on fresh paper towels and toss with salt.

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