Belgium · Trackside classic

Frites

Belgian twice fried fries with mayonnaise

Thick cut potatoes fried twice in beef fat until crisp outside and fluffy within, served in a paper cone with a generous spoonful of homemade mayonnaise.

Frites

Belgians will tell you, politely and firmly, that fries are Belgian, and the country has an estimated five thousand fry shacks, the fritkot or friterie, to back up the claim. The rules are clear: floury potatoes cut thicker than a pencil, fried twice, traditionally in beef fat, and served in a paper cone with a little wooden fork and a dollop of sauce on top. Mayonnaise is the default; the menu board of a good friterie will offer a dozen more, from andalouse to samurai.

At Spa, the frites stands on the hill above Eau Rouge do roaring trade in all weathers, and in the Ardennes that means all of them. Making them at home is mostly patience: the first, gentle fry cooks the potato through, the rest lets the steam escape, and the second, hot fry turns the outside into a crisp golden shell.

Homemade mayonnaise

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the yolk, mustard, half the lemon juice and the salt in the medium bowl and whisk for 30 seconds. Set the bowl on a damp towel so it does not spin.
  2. Whisking constantly, add the oil a few drops at a time for the first quarter cup. Once it thickens, add the rest in a thin, steady stream, still whisking. (Immersion blender method: put everything in the tall cup, let the oil settle on top, push the blender to the bottom, switch on and slowly lift it up over 20 seconds.)
  3. Whisk in the remaining lemon juice and taste for salt. Cover and refrigerate.

The frites

Ingredients

Method

  1. Peel the potatoes. Cut into slices 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) thick, then into sticks 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) wide.
  2. Rinse the sticks in a large bowl of cold water, swishing them to remove surface starch. Drain and dry them thoroughly on clean towels.
  3. Melt or heat the fat in the heavy pot to 300°F (150°C). Fry in 3 batches for 6 to 8 minutes each, stirring gently. Lift onto paper towels.
  4. Leave the blanched fries to cool for at least 20 minutes, or up to 2 hours.
  5. Heat the fat to 350°F (175°C). Fry in batches for 2 to 3 minutes each, until crisp and golden. Lift out, shake off the fat and toss in a bowl with salt.

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