Zimbabwe · Drinks and cocktails

Doro

Traditional sorghum and maize beer

Sorghum malt and maize soured, simmered and slowly fermented over three days into a thick, tangy, gently alcoholic opaque beer, shared from one vessel.

Doro

Long before bottled lager, beer in Zimbabwe meant doro: a thick, pinkish brown, sour opaque beer brewed from sorghum or millet malt and maize, drunk while still fermenting and passed around in a shared pot. It is brewed for weddings, communal work parties, rainmaking and ancestral ceremonies, and for the simple pleasure of neighbors gathering. The traditional process runs across about a week, from sprouting and sun drying the grain to souring, long boiling and a final fermentation, and a busy brewer rarely has spare minutes in any of them. Modern Zimbabwe also buys opaque beer ready made in cartons that are shaken before drinking, which tells you how much of a meal this drink is.

Our home version keeps the stages and the character but shortens the timeline to about three days, using sorghum malt bought ready made. It tastes nothing like lager: soured like sourdough, faintly sweet, with a texture somewhere between a thin porridge and a smoothie, and usually only about 3 to 4 percent alcohol. It is a project, not a cocktail, and the reward is a pot of something genuinely old to share on race day. For a sweet, alcohol free version, the zero proof variation makes masvusvu, the unfermented malt drink at the start of the process.

Day one: the soured mash

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the mealie meal and the 1 cup (120 g) sorghum malt in the large pot. Pour in the cold water a little at a time, whisking constantly, until smooth.
  2. Set the pot over medium low heat. Stir with the wooden spoon every few minutes, scraping the bottom, for about 40 minutes until it comes slowly to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes, stirring constantly.
  3. Take the pot off the heat and let it cool, stirring now and then, until it drops below 100°F (38°C), about 2 hours. Stir in the 2 tablespoons uncooked sorghum malt.
  4. Pour into the crock, cover with the cloth tied down with string, and leave at warm room temperature, 75°F to 85°F (24°C to 29°C), for about 24 hours.

Day two: cooking and fermenting

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pour the soured mash back into the clean pot with the water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring often, then turn the heat to low and simmer for 1 hour, stirring and scraping the bottom every 5 minutes, as it catches easily.
  2. Take the pot off the heat, cover with the cloth and leave to cool until it is below 90°F (32°C), about 3 to 4 hours. Stir now and then to stop a skin forming.
  3. Stir in the 1 1/2 cups (180 g) sorghum malt and the yeast, if using, until evenly mixed. Pour back into the clean crock, cover with the cloth and tie it down.
  4. Leave at warm room temperature for 24 to 36 hours, stirring once or twice a day with a clean spoon.

Day three: straining and serving

Ingredients

Method

  1. Stir the beer well, then pour it through the coarse sieve into the serving jug or pot, pressing the solids lightly with the spoon. Throw away the husks left in the sieve. If it is thicker than you like, stir in some of the cool water.
  2. Serve at once at room temperature or lightly cool, stirring before every pour, as it settles quickly.

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