Boerewors, Afrikaans for farmer's sausage, crossed the Limpopo long ago and settled in comfortably. In Zimbabwe it is a fixture of the braai, the outdoor grill that turns any weekend gathering into a social event, and it is sold sizzling off the coals at cricket and football grounds, agricultural shows and roadside stands. The sausage is coarse, made mostly of beef and seasoned above all with toasted coriander seed, with a whisper of clove, nutmeg and a splash of vinegar. It is traditionally formed into one long coil, which makes it look rather more like a garden hose than a lunch until it hits the grill.

The roll is the portable version: a length of hot sausage in a soft bun under a spoonful of tomato and onion relish. Homemade boerewors usually needs a mincer and sausage casings, so our home method shapes the seasoned meat into skinless links that cook on any grill or skillet. If you can buy ready made boerewors from a South African butcher or specialty shop, use it and skip straight to the relish. Either way, it is the closest thing southern Africa has to a stadium hot dog, with considerably more opinions attached.

The skinless boerewors

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 tablespoons whole coriander seed
• 1 1/2 lb (680 g) ground beef
• 8 oz (225 g) ground pork
• 2 teaspoons fine salt
• 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) apple cider vinegar

Method

1. Put the coriander seed in the small dry skillet over medium heat. Shake the pan constantly for 1 to 2 minutes, then tip the seeds onto a plate to cool for 5 minutes.
2. Crush the cooled seeds coarsely in the mortar and pestle or grinder, or seal them in the zip top bag and roll firmly with the rolling pin.
3. Put the beef and pork in the large bowl. Add the crushed coriander, salt, pepper, nutmeg, allspice, cloves and vinegar. Mix with clean hands for about 1 minute, squeezing the meat through your fingers, just until the spices are evenly spread.
4. Divide the meat into 8 equal portions, about 4 oz (115 g) each. Wet your hands and roll each one on the board into a log about 7 inches (18 cm) long and 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Lay them on the lined baking sheet, cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

The tomato and onion relish

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) vegetable oil
• 2 medium yellow onions
• 1 small fresh red chili
• 1 garlic clove
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 4 medium ripe tomatoes
• 2 teaspoons white sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt

Method

1. Heat the oil in the saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring every minute or two, for 10 minutes.
2. Stir in the chili, if using, the garlic and the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute.
3. Add the tomatoes, sugar and salt. Bring to a bubble, then turn the heat to low and simmer uncovered for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring now and then.

Grilling and serving

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) vegetable oil
• 8 soft hot dog rolls or long bread rolls

Method

1. Heat the outdoor grill or a grill pan or skillet to medium heat. Brush the grates or pan with the oil, using a folded paper towel held in the tongs.
2. Lay the sausages on the grill and leave them for 3 minutes before turning, so a crust forms and they release cleanly. Turn them gently with the tongs every 2 to 3 minutes for 10 to 12 minutes in total. A whole coil of ready made boerewors takes 15 to 20 minutes; turn it once halfway with two spatulas or a hinged grill basket, and do not prick the casing.
3. Split the rolls along the top with the bread knife, without cutting all the way through. Lay them cut side down on the edge of the grill for 30 to 60 seconds.
4. Put one sausage in each roll and spoon a generous line of warm relish over the top.

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