Venezuela · Regional favorite

Pastel de chucho

Margarita Island layered bake of sweet plantain, spiced fish and cheese

Layers of fried sweet plantain, a fragrant stew of flaked fish with peppers and ají dulce, cheese, beaten egg and a thread of cane syrup, baked until golden and set.

Pastel de chucho

Pastel de chucho is the pride of Margarita Island and the eastern coast of Venezuela. It is built like a lasagna, but with slices of fried ripe plantain where the pasta would be, a savory stew of flaked fish between them, grated cheese and beaten egg to bind it all, and a drizzle of papelón syrup that pushes the sweet and salty balance as far as it will go. The traditional fish is chucho, a ray from the eastern Caribbean, cooked, shredded and then stewed with onion, sweet peppers, ají dulce and herbs.

It is eaten all year on the island, and it is above all a dish of Lent and Holy Week, when families along the coast turn to fish. Rays are now a conservation concern in many waters, and an animated film made on Margarita has urged islanders to protect them, so this version uses skate from a well managed fishery or any firm white fish, as Venezuelan cooks themselves do with dogfish when chucho is not to be had. The result is generous, unexpected and very Caribbean, the kind of dish that makes a guest ask what is in it and then ask for the recipe.

The fish

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The fish stew

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The plantains and syrup

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Assembly and baking

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