Venezuela · Trackside classic

Mandocas

Fried sweet plantain and cornmeal rings with salty white cheese

Crisp teardrop rings of cornmeal dough sweetened with ripe plantain and raw cane sugar, fried golden and buried under grated salty white cheese.

Mandocas

Mandocas belong to Maracaibo and the state of Zulia in the far northwest of Venezuela, where they are as much a part of breakfast as café con leche. The dough is the same precooked cornmeal that makes arepas, but it is mixed with mashed ripe plantain and water sweetened with papelón, the dark raw cane sugar of the country, then rolled into ropes, looped into teardrops and fried until crisp and deep gold. Many cooks work a little aniseed into the dough as well, and some knead grated cheese straight into it.

The essential move comes at the end: a snowfall of hard, salty white cheese over the hot rings, sometimes with a lick of butter. Sweet and salty, crunchy and soft, it is a combination Zulianos defend with the fervor the rest of the country reserves for baseball. They are eaten at breakfast, as an afternoon snack and as a side at dinner, and they are best straight out of the oil and eaten with the fingers, which is the natural way to eat anything on a race morning.

The dough

Ingredients

Frying and finishing

Ingredients

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