Venezuela · Sweet finish

Golfeados

Sticky anise and cane sugar swirl buns with white cheese

Soft, spiraled sweet buns rolled up with dark cane sugar, anise seed and salty white cheese, baked close together and soaked in a glossy papelón syrup until sticky.

Golfeados

Golfeados come from Petare, once a town of its own on the eastern edge of Caracas, where at the start of the twentieth century bakers from Canary Island families began rolling soft dough around papelón, Venezuela's dark unrefined cane sugar, and anise seed. The name is usually traced to golfiao, a word the coffee growers around Caracas used for something small and coiled among the coffee plants, and one look at the spiral explains the comparison. Portuguese bakers who came to the area later are credited with adding the salty white cheese, which turned a sweet bun into something far more interesting.

A good golfeado is judged by three things: a soft, spongy crumb, the deep brown gloss of the papelón, and the contrast of sweet syrup with salty cheese. Venezuelans eat them warm with a slice of fresh, stretchy queso de mano on top and a cup of black coffee. They are an afternoon project with two rises, but nothing in them is difficult, and the smell of anise and caramel coming out of the oven is reward enough before the first bite. Bake them in the morning and they will still be sticky when the podium ceremony begins.

The dough

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Filling and shaping

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Papelón syrup and baking

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