Venezuela · Trackside classic

Empanadas de queso y dominó

Crisp corn turnovers filled with white cheese, and with black beans and cheese

Golden half moons of corn dough fried until they crackle, filled with melting white cheese or with black beans and cheese, and dunked in a bright green avocado sauce.

Empanadas de queso y dominó

A Venezuelan empanada is made with the same precooked corn flour as an arepa, folded around a filling, sealed into a half moon and fried until the crust blisters and turns deep gold. They are sold from carts and kiosks outside houses and churches, on beaches, at bus stops, stadiums and along the highways, and they are eaten at any hour that someone happens to be hungry. Fillings range from shredded beef and chicken to cazón, a small shark, which is the pride of Margarita Island and the eastern states.

These are two of the most loved, and both happen to be vegetarian. One is filled simply with salty white cheese; the other is the dominó, named after the game so popular in Venezuela, because its filling of black beans and white cheese has the colors of the tiles. They are best eaten hot from the oil, dipped in guasacaca, and they freeze beautifully, which means a tray can go from freezer to fryer in the time it takes to complete the formation lap.

The fillings

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The dough and shaping

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Frying

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Guasacaca

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