Venezuela · Sweet finish

Bienmesabe

Layered sponge cake with coconut custard, sweet wine and meringue

Light sponge cake soaked in sweet wine and layered with a silky coconut custard, crowned with soft meringue and a dusting of cinnamon, served cold.

Bienmesabe

The name is a statement of fact: bien me sabe, it tastes good to me. Desserts called bienmesabe turn up in many corners of Spain and Spanish speaking America, each one different, which suggests the name travelled further than any single recipe. In Venezuela it means something specific and grand, a cold layered cake of sponge, moistened with sweet sherry or rum, sandwiched with a rich custard of coconut milk and egg yolks, and topped with meringue and a dusting of cinnamon. It has been a celebrated dessert in the country since colonial times, and it remains the thing families make when the occasion deserves effort.

Think of it as a tropical cousin of trifle, with coconut where the British put custard and the same generous attitude to fortified wine. Every part can be made a day ahead, and it actually improves overnight in the fridge as the sponge drinks up the cream, which makes it unusually kind to a cook with a race to watch. The traditional cream starts by grating fresh coconuts; canned coconut milk does the same job here without the hammer.

The sponge cake

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The coconut cream

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Assembly

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The meringue topping

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