Asado negro is the Sunday roast of Caracas, and it is named for its color. The cook melts papelón, Venezuela's dark unrefined cane sugar, in hot oil until it turns almost black, then browns a whole cut of beef in it. That bitter caramel, softened by red wine, onions, peppers and a long, slow braise, becomes a sauce that is dark, shiny and remarkably balanced, sweet without tasting like dessert. The traditional cut is muchacho redondo, the lean eye of round, which slices neatly into rounds.

It is a celebration dish, cooked for birthdays, family lunches and the Christmas table, and served with white rice and fried ripe plantain. The caramel stage takes nerve, since the sugar must go darker than instinct allows. Once the pot is covered, though, it needs nothing but time, and it is better made the day before, which leaves the host free on race day to argue about tire strategy.

The roast

Ingredients

• 3 lb (1.4 kg) beef eye of round roast (muchacho redondo)
• 1 1/2 teaspoons fine salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) vegetable oil
• 1/2 cup (100 g) grated papelón or dark brown sugar
• 2 yellow onions
• 1 red bell pepper
• 4 ají dulce peppers
• 1 leek or 4 green onions
• 5 garlic cloves
• 1 ripe tomato
• 1 cup (240 ml) dry red wine
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) Worcestershire sauce
• 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) water or beef stock
• 2 bay leaves

Method

1. Pat the beef completely dry with paper towels and rub it all over with the salt and pepper.
2. Put the oil and sugar in the Dutch oven over medium heat. Let the sugar melt without stirring, swirling the pot now and then, for 4 to 6 minutes. Watch it closely as it bubbles and darkens.
3. Immediately lay the beef in the caramel with the tongs, standing back as it spits. Turn it every minute for 5 to 6 minutes until coated and darkened on every side.
4. Add the onions, bell pepper, ají dulce, leek, garlic and tomato around the meat and stir them through the caramel for 3 minutes. Pour in the wine and Worcestershire sauce and let them bubble for 2 minutes, scraping up the dark bits from the bottom.
5. Add the water or stock and bay leaves; the liquid should come about halfway up the meat. Bring to a simmer, cover, turn the heat to low and cook for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, turning the meat every 30 minutes and adding a splash of water if the liquid drops below a quarter of the way up.
6. Lift the meat onto the board and rest it for 15 minutes. Remove the bay leaves. Blend the vegetables and liquid until smooth, return to the pot and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed.
7. Cut the beef across the grain into slices about 1/3 inch (8 mm) thick and lay them back in the sauce over low heat for 5 minutes.

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