Uruguay · Drinks and cocktails

Mate

Yerba mate herbal infusion

Bitter green yerba leaves steeped in hot, never boiling, water and sipped through a metal straw, refilled again and again: Uruguay's constant companion.

Mate

No country on earth drinks more yerba mate per person than Uruguay, and it shows. Uruguayans carry a gourd in one hand and a thermos of hot water tucked under the arm through parks, offices, beaches and bus queues. Mate is the dried, chopped leaf of a South American holly, steeped in a cup, traditionally a hollowed gourd, and sipped through a bombilla, a metal straw with a filter at its foot. It is the one native ingredient the whole country shares, and it tastes grassy, bitter and quietly invigorating.

It is also a ritual. One person, the cebador, fills the gourd, drinks first, refills it and hands it to each person in turn; you hand it back without wiping the straw, and you say thank you only when you want no more. Uruguayans usually drink it amargo, without sugar. Over a long race it is perfect: it keeps everyone alert, and passing the gourd marks the laps better than any timing screen.

The mate

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat the water in the kettle until small bubbles cover the base and wisps of steam rise, but before it boils, or boil it and let it stand open for 4 to 5 minutes. Pour it into the thermos.
  2. Fill the gourd two thirds full with yerba. Cover the opening with your palm, turn the gourd upside down and shake it gently a few times, then turn it right side up.
  3. Tilt the gourd so the yerba slides to one side, forming a slope with a hollow on the low side. Hold it level again carefully so the slope stays.
  4. Pour the cool water into the hollow and wait 30 seconds while the leaves at the bottom soak it up. This protects them from the heat.
  5. Cover the top of the bombilla with your thumb, push its filter end down into the wet hollow until it touches the bottom, and lean it against the side of the gourd. From now on, do not stir or move it.
  6. Pour hot water from the thermos slowly into the hollow, next to the straw, until it reaches just below the dry peak. If you take sugar, sprinkle a pinch into the hollow first. Drink through the straw until you hear a gentle gurgle. Refill and pass to the next person. Keep refilling into the same spot; the gourd gives 10 to 15 rounds before the flavor fades.

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