Uruguay · Sweet finish

Massini

Sponge cake filled with meringue cream under a burnt egg yolk top

Two thin layers of sponge sandwiching a deep cloud of whipped cream and meringue, finished with a silky egg yolk custard that is dusted with sugar and burnished to a crackling caramel.

Massini

Ask a Uruguayan for the country's great cake and many will name the massini, also spelled masini. It is built from simple parts: two sheets of pionono, the thin sponge used across the Río de la Plata for rolled cakes, a thick filling of whipped cream folded with glossy meringue, and on top a layer of yema mola, a custard of egg yolks and syrup. That top is dusted with sugar and seared with a red hot iron until it turns into a thin, crackling, toffee colored crust.

The cake is named after Angelo Masini, an Italian tenor of the nineteenth century, though whether it was first made in Montevideo or in Catalonia, where a close relative is still sold, nobody can say for certain. What is certain is that it became famous in Uruguay through Confitería Carrera, opened in Montevideo in 1951 by the Spanish immigrant Pedro Carrera, and that it is now found in bakeries and restaurants all over the country, cut into tall squares for birthdays and long family lunches.

A kitchen blowtorch stands in admirably for the traditional hot iron, and a night in the fridge does the rest. Of all the ways to set fire to dessert, this is the most rewarding.

The pionono (sponge sheet)

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Meringue cream filling

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Yema mola (yolk custard)

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Assembly and the burnt top

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