Uruguay · Sweet finish

Martín Fierro

Mild cheese with homemade sweet potato paste

Uruguay's favorite way to end a meal: a slice of mild, creamy cheese topped with a slice of the same size of firm, glossy sweet paste, here a homemade dulce de batata made from sweet potato, sugar and vanilla.

Martín Fierro

In Uruguay a meal can end with the simplest dessert in the country: a slice of cheese with a slice of fruit paste of the same size laid on top. Uruguayans call it Martín Fierro, after the gaucho hero of José Hernández's celebrated poem, or simply queso y dulce, cheese and sweet. Across the river in Argentina much the same thing goes by postre vigilante. The pairing of cheese with a firm fruit paste came to the Río de la Plata from Spain, and it has been at home there long enough to have acquired two national names and very firm opinions about both.

The classic version uses dulce de membrillo, quince paste, but Uruguayans happily vary the sweet half: guava in the east and northeast of the country, and pastes of squash, fig, peach or sweet potato elsewhere. Dulce de batata, the sweet potato version, is one of the great pantry sweets of the region, dense, sliceable and tasting of caramelized sweet potato and vanilla. It is also the one you can make at home from ingredients in any supermarket, which is what this recipe does.

The cooking takes about an hour and asks mainly for patience and a long spoon, because thick purée bubbles like a hot spring. After that the paste sets in the fridge and the dessert assembles itself in a minute. The contrast is the point: salty, milky cheese against a sweet, faintly caramel paste, eaten in two bites, ideally while someone at the table is still arguing about the final lap.

Dulce de batata

Ingredients

Cheese and assembly

Ingredients

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