Uruguay · Sweet finish

Postre chajá

Sponge cake with peaches, cream and meringue

Layers of soft sponge soaked in peach syrup, whipped cream and peaches, then buried under crunchy meringue: the cloud of a cake from Paysandú.

Postre chajá

The chajá was created in 1927 by Orlando Castellano at the Confitería Las Familias in Paysandú, a city on the Uruguay River, and it is named after a large gray bird of the region's wetlands, the southern screamer. The connection is debated, though most agree the cake's pale, fluffy look has something of the bird's plumage. Inside are layers of sponge cake moistened with syrup, whipped cream and canned peaches; outside, a thick coat of crushed meringue that crunches and then melts. Some versions add a layer of dulce de leche, which nobody in Uruguay has ever been known to refuse.

It is a celebration cake that is easier than it looks, because nothing in it requires delicate decoration: the meringue covers every sin. Make it the morning of the race and it will be at its best by the podium ceremony.

The meringues

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 225°F (110°C) with racks in the upper and lower thirds.
  2. Beat the egg whites and cream of tartar in a clean bowl with the mixer on medium speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Turn to high and add the sugar one spoonful at a time, beating 15 seconds after each. Keep beating 3 to 4 minutes after the last spoonful.
  3. Drop heaped tablespoons of meringue onto the lined sheets, 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Bake for 1 1/2 hours, swapping the sheets halfway, then turn off the oven and leave them inside with the door closed for 30 minutes more.

The sponge

Ingredients

Method

  1. When the meringues are out, raise the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease the cake pan with the butter, dust it with flour and tap out the excess. Line the base with a circle of parchment.
  2. Beat the eggs, sugar and vanilla on high speed for 8 to 10 minutes.
  3. Mix the flour and baking powder, then sift or shake them through a sieve over the eggs in three parts. After each part, fold: cut down through the middle with the spatula, scoop along the bottom and turn the mixture over the top, gently, rotating the bowl, until no dry flour shows.
  4. Pour the batter into the pan and bake for 28 to 32 minutes without opening the door for the first 20. Cool in the pan 10 minutes, then run a knife around the edge, turn it out onto the rack, peel off the paper and cool completely, about 1 hour.

Filling and finishing

Ingredients

Method

  1. Set aside 3 peach halves for the top. Cut the rest into pieces about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm). Measure 1/2 cup (120 ml) of the peach syrup.
  2. Beat the cold cream, powdered sugar and vanilla on medium high speed for 2 to 3 minutes.
  3. Set the cake on the serving plate. With the serrated knife, cut it horizontally into two even layers, sawing gently as you turn the cake. Lift off the top layer.
  4. Brush the bottom layer with half the syrup. Spread on the dulce de leche, if using, then a third of the cream. Scatter over the peach pieces and a handful of meringues broken into chunks. Put the second layer on top, brush with the rest of the syrup and cover the top and sides with the remaining cream.
  5. Crush the remaining meringues lightly in your hands into small pieces and press them all over the top and sides. Slice the reserved peach halves and arrange them on top. Chill for at least 2 hours.

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