Uruguay · Regional favorite

Capeletis a la Caruso

Filled pasta in ham and mushroom cream

Little filled pasta hats in a velvety sauce of cream, ham, butter fried mushrooms and a spoonful of beef extract, invented in Montevideo and named for a tenor.

Capeletis a la Caruso

Caruso sauce is a Montevideo invention with an operatic backstory. The great Neapolitan tenor Enrico Caruso sang in the city in 1915, and decades later, in the 1950s, Raymundo Monti, the Piedmontese cook at the restaurant Mario y Alberto, created a sauce in his honor: cream, cooked ham and mushrooms sautéed in butter, deepened with a spoonful of meat extract. Uruguayans came to regard it as a national treasure, and it remains a Sunday favorite poured over capeletis, the small filled pasta that Italian immigrants made at home.

It is rich, quick and very forgiving, which is why it suits a race lunch. The sauce takes about as long as the pasta water takes to boil, and nobody has ever complained that it was too creamy. Whether the tenor ever tasted it is not recorded, and seems unlikely, as he had died decades before the sauce was born.

The Caruso sauce

Ingredients

Method

  1. Melt the butter in the skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes.
  2. Turn the heat to medium high, add the mushrooms and spread them out. Leave them for 2 minutes, then stir and cook 3 to 4 minutes more.
  3. Stir in the ham strips and cook for 1 minute to warm them.
  4. Pour in the cream, add the beef extract, nutmeg and pepper, and stir until the extract has dissolved. Bring to a gentle bubble, then turn the heat to low and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring now and then. Taste and add salt only if needed; the ham and extract are already salty.

The pasta

Ingredients

Method

  1. Bring about 4 quarts (4 liters) of water to a rolling boil in the large pot and add the salt. Add the pasta and stir once. Cook fresh filled pasta for the time on the packet, usually 3 to 5 minutes; dried fettuccine usually 10 to 12.
  2. Before draining, scoop out about 1/2 cup (120 ml) of the cooking water with the ladle or a mug. Drain the pasta in the colander.
  3. Tip the pasta into the skillet of sauce over low heat and toss gently for 1 minute. If the sauce is too thick, loosen it with a few tablespoons of the saved water.

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