Las Vegas never quite agreed to the idea of bedtime. In 1946 a Strip resort laid on a cheap midnight buffet to keep guests in the building after the late show, the idea spread across town within a few seasons, and feeding people at strange hours became part of how the city works. Its most durable descendant is the graveyard special: steak and eggs, served in casino coffee shops from around midnight to dawn at a price that has always seemed slightly too good to be true. Casino workers coming off shift, night owls and visitors who have lost track of the date all sit at the same counter.

The plate rarely changes: a New York strip seared hard, two eggs any style, a heap of potatoes and a couple of slices of toast. The Las Vegas Grand Prix runs on a Saturday night under the lights, which makes this the only signature dish in the book that is correctly served at two in the morning. Cook it at home after the checkered flag and you will understand why the city never felt the need to close the kitchen.

Hash browns

Ingredients

• 2 medium (about 1 lb / 450 g) russet potatoes
• 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola
• 1 tablespoon (15 g) unsalted butter
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

The steaks

Ingredients

• 2 boneless New York strip steaks
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon neutral oil with a high smoke point, such as canola
• 1 tablespoon (15 g) unsalted butter

The eggs

Ingredients

• 4 large eggs
• 1 tablespoon (15 g) unsalted butter
• 1 pinch fine salt and ground black pepper

Toast

Ingredients

• 4 slices white, wheat or sourdough bread
• 1 tablespoon (15 g) softened unsalted butter

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