United States · Drinks and cocktails

Cafecito

Miami Cuban coffee with whipped sugar foam

Dark, strong stovetop coffee poured over sugar that has been whipped with the first drops into a pale caramel foam: tiny, sweet, powerful, and Miami's way of saying good morning, good afternoon and welcome.

Cafecito

Cuban coffee came to Miami with the Cuban community that settled there from the late 1950s onward, and it never quite slowed down. It is dark roasted coffee brewed strong, in an espresso machine or a stovetop pot, and sweetened as it is made rather than at the table. The trick that defines it is the espumita: the first few drops of coffee, the strongest, are beaten hard with sugar until they turn into a thick, pale foam, and the rest of the pot is stirred in so that a creamy cap floats on top of every cup. Order a colada and it arrives in a single cup with a stack of thimble size plastic cups, meant to be poured out and shared around the office.

Much of Miami's coffee is bought at a ventanita, a walk up window cut into the side of a café, a format that Versailles in Little Havana claims as its founder's idea and that the rest of the city happily copied. For the Miami Grand Prix weekend, a pot of cafecito is the most local thing you can serve and the fastest way to keep a room awake through qualifying. It takes ten minutes, a moka pot and a strong wrist.

Brewing the coffee

Ingredients

Method

  1. Unscrew the moka pot. Pour freshly boiled water into the base up to just below the little safety valve on the side, never above it. Hold the base with the oven mitt, because it is now hot.
  2. Set the funnel in the base and spoon in the coffee until it is full and slightly mounded, then level it with the back of the spoon. Do not press it down. Wipe any loose grounds off the rim so the pot seals.
  3. Using the oven mitt, screw the top chamber tightly onto the base. Set the pot on a burner over medium heat with the lid open so you can watch, and pick up your spoon and sugar jug.

The espumita and the pour

Ingredients

Method

  1. As soon as the first coffee appears, lift the pot and pour the first 1 to 2 teaspoons, the darkest and strongest drops, onto the sugar in the jug. Put the pot straight back on the heat so the rest keeps brewing.
  2. Beat the sugar and coffee together hard with the back of the spoon, pressing and scraping it against the side of the jug in quick, firm strokes, for 1 to 2 minutes. If it stays grainy and dry, add a few more drops of coffee.
  3. When the pot starts to sputter and the stream from the spout turns pale gold and foamy, take it off the heat at once. Leaving it longer makes the coffee bitter.
  4. Pour the hot coffee slowly into the jug over the foam, stirring gently all the while. The paste dissolves into the coffee and a layer of creamy foam rises to the top.
  5. Pour into the small cups at once, sharing out the foam evenly so every cup gets a cap.

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