United States · Sweet finish

Basque bread pudding

Yesterday's crusty bread soaked in vanilla and cinnamon custard, baked until puffed and golden and finished with warm caramel, as Nevada's Basque dinner tables like to end the night.

Basque bread pudding

A Basque dinner in northern Nevada is not a meal you finish so much as one you survive with honor. After the soup, the bread, the salad, the beans and the lamb, a dish of bread pudding arrives, and it is a point of pride to find room for it. The dinner houses that grew out of the old sheepherders' boarding houses still bake their own bread, and a kitchen that bakes its own bread always has yesterday's loaf to use up. Soaked in sweet custard and baked, it becomes the dessert those tables are known for, and in at least one of them it still comes with every full dinner.

This version keeps faith with that frugal idea: day old French bread, milk, eggs, sugar, a little cinnamon and vanilla, and a warm caramel to pour over, a nod to the flan that shares the dessert menu. It is generous, forgiving and best eaten warm, which makes it the right way to close a long Las Vegas race night, when nobody is in any hurry to go to bed.

The pudding

Ingredients

Method

  1. Brush the inside of the baking dish with the 1 tablespoon of melted butter set aside for it. Put the bread cubes in the dish, scattering the raisins between them if using.
  2. In the large bowl, whisk the eggs and the 2/3 cup sugar together for 1 minute. Whisk in the milk, cream, the remaining 2 tablespoons melted butter, the vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt.
  3. Pour the custard slowly over the bread, then press the cubes down gently with the spatula so they all get wet. Leave to soak for 20 minutes, pressing them down again halfway. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 350°F (180°C) with a rack in the middle.
  4. Sprinkle the tablespoon of sugar over the top and bake for 45 to 55 minutes.
  5. Set the dish on the wire rack for 15 minutes while you make the caramel. The pudding sinks a little and firms up enough to scoop neatly.

Warm caramel sauce

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the sugar and water in the small saucepan and set it over medium heat. Swirl the pan gently, without stirring, until the sugar dissolves, then let it bubble without stirring for 5 to 8 minutes, swirling the pan now and then so it colors evenly.
  2. Off the heat, standing back, pour in the cream a little at a time while whisking. It will hiss and bubble up hard. Whisk in the butter and salt. If any hard lumps of sugar form, set the pan over low heat and whisk until they melt.

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