United Kingdom · Signature dish

Fish and chips

Flaky white fish in a crackling golden batter, thick chips fried twice, a bowl of mushy peas and a sharp tartare sauce: Britain's favorite Friday night.

Fish and chips

Fried fish arrived in London with Jewish refugees from Portugal and Spain, chips came from the north, and sometime in the 1860s someone sensibly sold them together. By the twentieth century the chippy was in every high street, and fish and chips had become so central to British life that it was among the few foods never rationed during the Second World War. Cod in the south, haddock in the north, salt and malt vinegar shaken on at the counter: the regional variations are small, and defended with great passion.

The British Grand Prix has been on the calendar since the very first championship race in 1950, and its crowd at Silverstone has worked its way through a great many paper wrapped portions. At home the secret is the order of work: chips fried once to soften, the fish fried in a light, ice cold batter, then the chips fried again until crisp, so everything reaches the table hot together.

Mushy peas

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the peas in a large bowl with the baking soda and cover with at least 4 cups (1 liter) boiling water. Stir and leave to soak overnight, 12 hours.
  2. Drain and rinse the peas. Put them in the medium saucepan, cover with fresh cold water by 1 inch (2.5 cm), bring to a boil and simmer gently, uncovered, for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring often near the end as they thicken. Add a splash of water if they catch on the bottom.
  3. Beat in the butter, salt, sugar and mint with a wooden spoon or a quick pass of the masher. Taste and add salt. Keep warm, covered, over very low heat.

Tartare sauce

Ingredients

Method

  1. Stir everything together in the small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until needed.

The chips

Ingredients

Method

  1. Peel the potatoes and cut them into thick sticks about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) square. Put them in the large bowl of cold water and swish them around to rinse off the starch. Drain, then spread on a clean towel and pat completely dry.
  2. Pour the oil into the heavy pot, no more than one third full. Clip on the thermometer and heat over medium heat to 285°F (140°C).
  3. Fry the chips in two batches for 7 to 8 minutes each, stirring gently once or twice. Lift them out onto a rack set over a baking sheet. They will look pale.

The battered fish

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pat the fillets very dry with paper towels and sprinkle both sides with the salt. Put the dusting flour in a shallow dish.
  2. Raise the heat under the oil to 350°F (175°C). Heat the oven to 200°F (95°C) to keep things warm.
  3. In the second shallow dish, whisk the batter flour, baking powder and salt. Pour in the ice cold lager or sparkling water and whisk briefly, just until smooth. A few small lumps are fine; overmixing makes the batter tough.
  4. Turn a fillet in the dusting flour and shake off the excess. Then dip it into the batter, turning so it is completely coated, and lift it out, letting the extra drip back for a few seconds.
  5. Holding the fillet by one end, lower it slowly into the oil, moving it away from you as you let go, so it floats rather than sinks and sticks. Fry 2 pieces at a time for 6 to 8 minutes, turning once halfway with the slotted spoon.
  6. Lift the fish onto the second rack and put it in the warm oven while you fry the rest and finish the chips. Let the oil return to 350°F (175°C) between batches.

Finishing the chips

Ingredients

Method

  1. Raise the oil to 375°F (190°C). Fry the blanched chips in two batches for 2 to 4 minutes each.
  2. Lift onto paper towels, sprinkle at once with flaky salt and a shake of malt vinegar if you like.

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