United Kingdom · Sweet finish

Eton mess

Strawberries, cream and broken meringue

Crisp, chewy meringue broken into softly whipped cream with ripe strawberries and a ribbon of strawberry sauce: the most elegant mess in British cooking.

Eton mess

Eton mess takes its name from Eton College, where it has long been served at the annual cricket match against Harrow, and it first appeared in print in 1893. Its exact beginnings are cheerfully disputed. A popular story blames a dropped pudding; accounts of the school tuck shop in the 1930s describe a version made with bananas or strawberries and ice cream, with meringue arriving later. Harrow, with characteristic rivalry, calls its own version Harrow mess.

What matters is that it is the taste of the British summer: strawberries at their peak, cream barely whipped, and meringue smashed into crunchy shards. The British Grand Prix arrives in July, right in strawberry season, and this asks for no oven skills at all if you buy the meringues. It is also the only dessert where an unsteady hand counts as technique.

The meringues

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 225°F (110°C). Line the baking sheet with parchment.
  2. Beat the egg whites and cream of tartar with the mixer on medium speed until foamy, then on high until they hold soft peaks.
  3. With the mixer running on high, add the sugar one spoonful at a time, about every 15 seconds. Then add the vanilla and beat for 2 to 3 minutes more.
  4. Spoon 6 large mounds onto the parchment using the two spoons, leaving space between them. Bake for 1 1/2 hours, then turn off the oven and leave them inside with the door closed until completely cool, at least 1 hour.

The strawberries and sauce

Ingredients

Method

  1. Take about a third of the strawberries, the least pretty ones, and blend them with 1 tablespoon sugar and the lemon juice until smooth, or mash them very well with a fork. Push the purée through the sieve to remove the seeds.
  2. Cut the remaining strawberries into quarters, or halves if small, toss with the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and leave for 15 minutes.

The cream and assembly

Ingredients

Method

  1. In the large bowl, whip the cream, powdered sugar and vanilla with the mixer on medium speed until it just holds soft, floppy peaks. Stop early: it thickens further when you fold in the other ingredients.
  2. Break 5 of the meringues into rough pieces with your hands, from large shards to small crumbs. Keep the sixth for the top.
  3. Add the broken meringue and most of the macerated strawberries with their juice to the cream. Fold just two or three times with a spatula, then drizzle over half the sauce and fold once more, so it stays streaky.
  4. Spoon into the glasses or bowls, top with the remaining strawberries, a drizzle of sauce, a few crumbs of the last meringue and a sprig of mint.

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