United Arab Emirates · Regional favorite

Maleh fooga

Slow cooked rice over salted fish with dried lime, tomato and bezar spices

Salted fish, soaked until pleasantly seasoned, simmered with golden onions, tomato, black dried limes and the Emirati bezar spice blend, then covered with basmati rice that steams slowly on top and drinks in every bit of the savory, tangy broth.

Maleh fooga

Along the Emirati coast, the catch that could not be eaten fresh was turned into maleh. The fish is cleaned, boned and opened out in one piece, buried in sea salt in a bucket, layer upon layer, and after a few days weighted under a stone and left for weeks while the salt and the fish's own juices do their slow work. What emerges is firm, intensely savory and a little bitter, a store cupboard of the sea that still turns up on Emirati tables today, sometimes simply with lemon and often cooked.

Maleh fooga is one of the best ways to cook it. The salted fish goes into the pot with onions, tomato and black dried lime, and the rice is cooked over it, slowly, so that the salt of the fish seasons the grains from below while the sour, smoky loomi keeps the whole thing bright. It is listed among the classic lunch dishes of the Emirates, and Emirati chefs prize it for exactly that balance of salt and tang.

Real maleh takes six weeks and a seaside bucket; we use salt cod, which is cured in much the same spirit and sold in good fishmongers and Spanish, Portuguese and Caribbean shops across Europe and the United States. Soak it well, taste the broth before the rice goes in, and you have a pot of Emirati home cooking that feels a long way from the paddock and none the worse for it.

Bezar spice blend

Ingredients

The salted fish base

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The rice on top

Ingredients

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