Rakı is Turkey's national spirit: grape distillate flavored with aniseed, clear in the bottle and turning cloudy white the moment water touches it, which is why Turks call it lion's milk. It is not a cocktail but a ritual, the centerpiece of the rakı sofrası, a long evening table of small cold dishes, white cheese, ripe melon, fried fish and conversation that may last until midnight. Custom treats it seriously; it is sipped, never knocked back, and always with food.

The method is simple and specific: rakı first, cold water second, ice last if at all, and a separate glass of water to drink alongside. Turkey is a predominantly Muslim country, many Turks do not drink at all, and our zero proof version, an anise and fennel infusion that turns gently cloudy, keeps the table ritual for everyone.

The drink

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 oz (45 ml) rakı
• 1 1/2 to 3 oz (45 to 90 ml) very cold still water
• 1 or 2 ice cubes

Method

1. Pour the rakı into the tall glass.
2. Add an equal amount of cold water for a strong drink, or double for a milder one.
3. Add an ice cube or two only now, if you like.
4. Fill the second glass with cold water to sip between mouthfuls.

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