Turkey · Trackside classic

Midye dolma

Mussels stuffed with spiced rice, pine nuts and currants

Glossy black mussels packed with rice cooked in onion, allspice, cinnamon, pine nuts and currants, steamed in their own juices and eaten cold with a squeeze of lemon, using the top shell as a spoon: Istanbul's favorite late night street snack.

Midye dolma

Midye dolma are sold from trays on the streets of Istanbul, Izmir and the seaside towns of the Aegean, piled high in glistening rows with a heap of lemon wedges at the side. The vendor opens one, squeezes over the lemon and hands it to you; you eat it, the next one is already open, and the exchange continues until you say stop, which in practice takes longer than you planned. Inside each shell is a spoonful of rice that has been cooked slowly with sweet onions, toasted pine nuts, currants and warm spices, then steamed with the mussel so it soaks up all the briny juices.

Making them at home is a calm afternoon project: the stuffing can be made a day ahead, and opening the mussels takes a little practice before it becomes quick. They are served cold or at room temperature, which makes them ideal for a gathering. The top half of the shell is your spoon, the lemon is not optional, and nobody has ever eaten exactly one.

The spiced rice stuffing

Ingredients

Opening and filling the mussels

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Steaming

Ingredients

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