Turkey · Sweet finish

Kabak tatlısı

Candied pumpkin with tahini and walnuts

Thick slabs of pumpkin left overnight under sugar until they weep their own syrup, then simmered slowly until glossy, deep orange and tender, chilled and finished with a ribbon of tahini and crushed walnuts: Turkey's autumn dessert.

Kabak tatlısı

When the big pumpkins appear in Turkish markets in autumn, kabak tatlısı follows close behind. The method is pleasingly unhurried: wedges of peeled pumpkin are buried in sugar and left overnight, during which the sugar draws the juice out of the pumpkin and turns into a syrup without a drop of water being added. The next day the pot goes on a low heat with a cinnamon stick and a few cloves, and the pumpkin slowly candies in its own juices until it is translucent at the edges and holds its shape on the plate.

It is served cold, and the toppings are what lift it from sweet to memorable: a drizzle of tahini, whose nutty bitterness cuts through the sugar, and a handful of crushed walnuts, sometimes with a spoonful of kaymak, the thick Turkish clotted cream. It is a winter and autumn favorite, and quite possibly the most persuasive argument ever made on behalf of the pumpkin. It needs almost no skill and very little attention, only a little forward planning.

The candied pumpkin

Ingredients

The topping

Ingredients

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