Turkey · Drinks and cocktails

Ayran

Cold salted yogurt drink

Thick, tangy yogurt whisked with ice cold water and a pinch of salt until a soft white foam rises: Turkey's favorite partner for anything grilled.

Ayran

Ayran is yogurt, water and salt, and that is the whole list. Whisked or shaken hard, it turns into a cold, faintly sour, slightly salty drink with a cap of white foam, and in Turkey it is ordered with kebabs, lahmacun, pide and grilled meat as reflexively as other countries order a soda. It was developed by Turkic peoples of Central Asia long before it was bottled, and it is drunk today across the Balkans, the Caucasus and the Middle East, under names that include doogh in Iran and laban in parts of the Arab world.

Turks judge ayran by its froth, which is taken as a sign that it is fresh; the frothiest kind is whipped in a churn, and some places serve it in copper cups. It cools chili and cuts through rich, smoky grilled meat, which makes it an ideal drink for a long, warm afternoon of watching other people go very fast.

The ayran

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the yogurt in the bowl or pitcher and whisk it on its own for about 30 seconds, until it is completely smooth and there are no lumps. This stops it going grainy when the water goes in.
  2. Pour in about a third of the cold water and whisk until smooth, then add the rest in two more parts, whisking after each. Whisk in the salt.
  3. Whisk hard, fast and in circles for 1 to 2 minutes. Or blitz it with the stick blender or in a blender for 30 seconds, or pour it into the jar, close the lid tightly and shake it hard for 1 minute.
  4. Taste it. It should be tangy and refreshing with a gentle saltiness, never sharply salty. Add a pinch more salt if it tastes flat, or a splash more water if it feels heavy. Chill for 30 minutes if it is not cold, then whisk it again just before pouring to bring back the foam.

To serve

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pour the ayran into the glasses, letting the foam slide in last so it sits on top. Add a couple of ice cubes if you like, and a pinch of crumbled dried mint on the foam if you are using it.

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