Thailand · Regional favorite

Pla kapong nueng manao

Steamed sea bass in hot lime, garlic and chili broth

A whole sea bass steamed over lemongrass until just tender, then flooded with a hot, sharp broth of lime juice, raw garlic, bird's eye chili, fish sauce and cilantro, and served with rice.

Pla kapong nueng manao

Order pla kapong nueng manao at a Thai seafood restaurant and it usually arrives in a metal tray shaped like a fish, set over a little flame so the broth keeps bubbling at the table. The fish beneath is barramundi, pla kapong in Thai, steamed until its flesh is white and soft, and the broth around it is fierce: lime juice, raw garlic, chopped chilies and fish sauce, softened with a little stock and palm sugar and scattered with cilantro. It is sour first, then hot, then salty, and the sweet, mild fish soaks it all up.

It is a dish of the Thai table rather than the street, ordered to share with rice and a few other plates, and it shows off something Thai cooking does brilliantly: a few raw, bright ingredients poured over something plain, turning it into something vivid. The trick is to keep the sauce fresh. The garlic, chili and lime are never cooked, only warmed by the hot stock, so they stay sharp and aromatic.

A whole fish looks impressive and is easier than it seems; a good fishmonger will clean it for you. Fillets work too, and take half the time. Either way, have the rice ready, because the broth is the best part and you will want something to catch it.

The fish

Ingredients

Lime and garlic broth

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Rice and serving

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