Thailand · Signature dish

Pad kra pao gai kai dao

Holy basil chicken stir fry with a crisp fried egg

Minced chicken seared hard with garlic, bird's eye chili and peppery holy basil, glossed with oyster and soy sauces and piled over jasmine rice under a fried egg with lacy, crackling edges.

Pad kra pao gai kai dao

Ask Thais what they eat when they cannot decide what to eat, and the answer is very often pad kra pao. Minced or chopped meat is flung into a smoking wok with pounded garlic and chilies, seasoned with oyster sauce, soy and a little sugar, and finished with a fistful of holy basil, whose peppery, clove like scent is the whole point. It is spooned over rice and crowned with kai dao, an egg fried in so much hot oil that its white puffs and blisters into a brown, crunchy frill while the yolk stays runny. It is sold from street stalls, food courts and shophouse kitchens all over the country, cooked to order in under five minutes.

The one thing to get right is the basil. Holy basil, kra pao, is a different plant from the Thai sweet basil sold more widely in the West, sharper and spicier, with none of the aniseed. Sweet basil makes a perfectly pleasant dinner, but it makes a different dish. Everything else here is speed and nerve: a very hot pan, ingredients lined up before you start, and two minutes of stirring that feel considerably shorter than a pit stop.

Jasmine rice

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the rice in the sieve and rinse it under cold running water, rubbing the grains gently with your fingers, for about a minute. This washes off loose starch so the cooked grains stay separate.
  2. Put the rinsed rice and the measured water in the saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. As soon as it boils, turn the heat to the lowest setting, put the lid on and cook for 15 minutes without lifting the lid. Turn off the heat and leave it covered for 10 minutes more. Or cook it in a rice cooker following the cooker's instructions.

The crisp fried eggs (kai dao)

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pour the oil into the small frying pan; it should be about 1/4 inch (6 mm) deep. Set it over medium high heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Test it by dropping in a single drop of egg white from the cup.
  2. Hold the cup close to the oil and slide in one egg. Stand back a little, because it spits. Leave it for 30 seconds, then tilt the pan slightly and spoon hot oil over the white around the yolk, not over the yolk itself. Fry for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes in total.
  3. Lift the egg out with the slotted spoon, let the oil drip back into the pan for a moment, and set it on the paper towels. Fry the second egg the same way. Turn off the heat and leave the oil to cool before throwing it away.

The holy basil chicken

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the garlic and chilies in the mortar and pound them for about a minute into a rough, juicy paste. You are not aiming for smooth; bruised pieces are right. If you have no mortar, chop them together very finely on the board, pressing down with the flat of the knife now and then to crush them.
  2. In the small bowl, stir together the oyster sauce, light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, fish sauce, sugar and water until the sugar has dissolved.
  3. Set the wok over high heat until it is very hot, about 2 minutes. Add the oil and swirl it round, then add the garlic and chili paste and stir constantly for 15 to 20 seconds.
  4. Add the chicken all at once and spread it out across the wok. Leave it untouched for 30 seconds so it sears, then stir and break it apart with the spatula. Keep stirring and tossing for 2 to 3 minutes.
  5. Pour the sauce around the edge of the wok so it hits the hot metal and sizzles, then toss everything together for about 30 seconds.
  6. Turn off the heat. Add all the basil and toss for 10 to 15 seconds, just until it collapses into the chicken. Taste a piece and add a few drops more fish sauce if it needs salt.

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