Thailand · Drinks and cocktails

Oliang

Thai black iced coffee

Dark, smoky coffee brewed strong through a cloth filter, sweetened while hot and poured over a glass packed with ice: the black, bracing cousin of Thai iced tea.

Oliang

Oliang is the iced coffee of the Thai street and the old Chinese Thai coffee shop. The name comes from the Teochew dialect, spoken by many of Thailand's Chinese families, and means simply black and cold, which is exactly what arrives. The traditional blend is not pure coffee: robust dark roasted beans are ground with roasted corn, soybeans and sesame seeds, which give the drink its smoky, toasty, faintly cereal depth. It is steeped in a pot of boiling water, strained through a long cotton sock on a wire ring called a tung tom, sweetened generously and poured over ice.

Black is the classic, sweet and strong enough to make the ice work for its living. Add milk and it becomes kafae yen, the creamy version, which we give as a variation. Thai grocers sell ready mixed oliang powder in bags; if you cannot find it, a very dark roast with a spoonful of toasted sesame and a little cardamom makes an honest stand in, and nobody in the grandstand will check your credentials.

The syrup

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put both sugars and the water in the small saucepan over medium heat and stir until every grain of sugar has dissolved, about 2 minutes. Let it bubble gently for 1 minute more, then take it off the heat.

The coffee

Ingredients

Method

  1. Bring the water to a boil in the medium saucepan, then turn off the heat. Stir in the oliang powder, put the lid on and leave it to steep for 8 to 10 minutes. Give it one stir halfway through.
  2. Hold the coffee sock or lined sieve over the pitcher and pour the coffee through slowly. Let it drip through by itself; do not squeeze or press the grounds, which pushes bitterness and grit into the drink. If it looks cloudy, strain it a second time.
  3. While the coffee is still hot, stir in 1/2 cup (120 ml) of the syrup. Taste it: it should be strong and distinctly sweet, sweeter than you would drink it hot. Add more syrup a spoonful at a time if you like. Leave the pitcher to cool for 30 minutes, then chill it if you have time.

To serve

Ingredients

Method

  1. Fill each glass right to the top with crushed ice. Stir the coffee, then pour it slowly over the ice until each glass is almost full. Put the leftover syrup on the table for anyone who wants it sweeter.

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