Thailand · Trackside classic

Moo ping

Grilled pork skewers with sticky rice

Thin pork shoulder marinated in garlic, coriander root, white pepper and palm sugar, grilled until sticky and charred, with a warm bag of sticky rice.

Moo ping

Before most of Bangkok is properly awake, the moo ping carts are already smoking. Thin slices of fatty pork are threaded onto bamboo sticks, marinated in a sweet and savory paste of garlic, coriander root and white pepper, and grilled over charcoal while being basted with coconut milk. Commuters buy a few sticks and a small bag of sticky rice, and breakfast is eaten walking, which is the most efficient pit stop in Thai cuisine.

The same skewers turn up at markets, temple fairs, football matches and any gathering big enough to justify a grill. They suit a race weekend perfectly: the pork marinates overnight, cooks in about 10 minutes, and needs no plate, no sauce and no cutlery beyond a pinch of rice in the fingers.

The marinated pork

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cut the pork into slices about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick, then into pieces roughly 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) square. Keep the fat on.
  2. Pound the garlic, cilantro roots and white pepper in the mortar until they form a rough paste, about 2 minutes. If using a mini food processor, blend them with the oil.
  3. In the large bowl, stir the paste with the palm sugar, oyster sauce, fish sauce, light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, oil (if not already used) and half the coconut milk until the sugar has mostly dissolved.
  4. Add the pork and massage the marinade into it with your hands for 1 minute. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight. Cover and refrigerate the remaining coconut milk for basting.
  5. Thread the pork onto the soaked skewers, pushing the pieces close together and bunching them slightly, about 4 inches (10 cm) of meat per skewer. Leave a handle of bare stick at the bottom.
  6. Heat the grill to medium, where you can hold your hand just above the grate for about 5 seconds. Grill the skewers for 8 to 10 minutes, turning every 2 minutes and brushing with the reserved coconut milk each time you turn them. On a grill pan, cook over medium high heat in batches. Under a broiler, set the rack 4 inches (10 cm) from the heat and broil for 4 to 5 minutes a side.
  7. Rest the skewers on a plate for 3 minutes before eating.

Sticky rice

Ingredients

Method

  1. Rinse the rice in a bowl of cold water, swirling with your hand, and pour off the cloudy water. Repeat 3 or 4 times. Cover the rice with cold water by 2 inches (5 cm) and soak for at least 4 hours or overnight.
  2. Pour about 2 inches (5 cm) of water into the saucepan and bring it to a boil. Line the sieve or bamboo steamer with damp cheesecloth. The sieve must sit above the water without touching it.
  3. Drain the rice and spread it on the cloth in an even layer. Set it over the boiling water, cover with the lid or a tight sheet of foil, and steam over medium heat for 20 to 25 minutes. Halfway through, fold the cloth to flip the rice over so it cooks evenly, and check the water level, topping it up with boiling water if low.
  4. Turn the rice out onto a board, spread it briefly to let the steam escape, then gather it into a lump and wrap it in the cloth or a clean towel until serving.

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