Thailand · Trackside classic

Khao kha moo

Five spice braised pork leg on rice with eggs, greens and chili vinegar

Pork leg braised for hours in a dark, glossy, sweet and savory broth of soy, palm sugar, star anise, cinnamon and five spice, sliced over jasmine rice with braised eggs, Chinese broccoli, pickled mustard greens and a sharp chili vinegar.

Khao kha moo

Look for the stall with a huge pot of dark, simmering broth and a glistening pork leg resting beside the chopping block: that is khao kha moo, and there is usually a queue. The cook pulls the meat from the bone, chops it into soft slices of meat, fat and wobbling skin, lays it over a plate of rice, adds a braised egg and a few stems of greens, and spoons over the broth. A dish of chili vinegar, fresh chilies and raw garlic goes alongside, and it is up to you how brave to be.

The dish came to Thailand with Chinese cooks and their tradition of slow, soy based braising, then picked up Thai habits along the way: coriander root, garlic and white pepper pounded into the paste, palm sugar for sweetness, and a sour chili sauce to cut the richness. It is eaten everywhere, from market stalls and food courts to proper restaurants, and because one big pot feeds a whole day of customers, it has become one of the great one plate meals of the Thai street.

At home it is mostly waiting. The pork does the work in a covered pot, the eggs soak up the broth in the last half hour, and the kitchen fills with the smell of star anise and caramel. It is the kind of dish that makes a long afternoon feel well spent.

The braised pork

Ingredients

Chili vinegar sauce

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Greens, pickles and rice

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