Thailand · Regional favorite

Gai yang

Isan grilled chicken with tamarind chili sauce

Chicken legs marinated in garlic, lemongrass, coriander root and pepper, grilled slowly until bronzed, with a sour, smoky dipping sauce of tamarind, chili and toasted rice.

Gai yang

Gai yang, grilled chicken, belongs to the shared kitchen of Laos and Isan, Thailand's northeast, and it is now sold from street grills across the whole country. The marinade is pounded from garlic, lemongrass, coriander root and plenty of pepper, seasoned with fish sauce and a little sugar, and the chicken is cooked slowly over low coals so the skin turns a deep bronze while the meat stays juicy. It is a dish of patience: the grill cooks do very little, very attentively, for a long time.

The partner it cannot do without is nam jim jaew, a thin, sour, smoky dipping sauce of tamarind, lime, fish sauce, dried chili and toasted ground rice, which gives it a nutty, sandy texture. With som tam and a basket of sticky rice it makes the classic Isan meal, a fine thing to eat while watching the motorcycles at Buriram or a Grand Prix from the sofa.

The marinated chicken

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pound the peppercorns in the mortar until coarsely cracked. Add the garlic, lemongrass and cilantro roots and pound for 3 to 4 minutes into a rough paste. In a mini food processor, blend everything with the oil instead.
  2. Scrape the paste into the large bowl and stir in the fish sauce, soy sauce, palm sugar and oil until the sugar has mostly dissolved.
  3. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Cut two or three slashes about 1/2 inch (1 cm) deep into the meaty side of each piece, down to the bone. Add the chicken to the marinade and rub it into the slashes and under the skin with your hands. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight, turning once if you remember. Wash your hands well.
  4. For a charcoal grill, pile the lit coals on one side so you have a hot side and a cooler side. For gas, light one side on medium and leave the other side off. For the oven, heat it to 400°F (200°C) and set the wire rack on the foil lined baking sheet.
  5. Scrape most of the loose paste off the chicken, as bits of garlic burn. Rub the grate with a little oil. Grill the chicken skin side up on the cooler side with the lid closed for 30 to 40 minutes, turning every 10 minutes and brushing with the leftover marinade during the first 20 minutes only. Finish skin side down over the hotter side for 2 to 3 minutes to crisp. In the oven, roast skin side up on the rack for 35 to 45 minutes, then broil for 2 to 3 minutes for color.
  6. Rest the chicken on a board for 5 minutes, then chop each thigh into 2 or 3 pieces through the bone with a heavy knife if you like, as Thai vendors do.

Nam jim jaew dipping sauce

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the raw rice in the dry skillet over medium low heat and stir or shake the pan often for 8 to 10 minutes. Let it cool for 2 minutes, then grind it to a coarse powder in the spice grinder or mortar.
  2. In the small bowl, stir the fish sauce, lime juice, tamarind and palm sugar until the sugar dissolves. Stir in the chili flakes and shallot.
  3. Just before serving, stir in 1 tablespoon of the toasted rice powder, the cilantro and the scallion. Keep the leftover rice powder in a jar for next time.

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