Rösti began as a farmer's breakfast in the canton of Bern, where Bremgarten once hosted the Swiss Grand Prix in the forest just outside the city. It is now eaten all over German speaking Switzerland at every meal: beside a sausage, under a fried egg, or covered in melted cheese. It is so closely identified with that part of the country that the cultural line between German and French speaking Switzerland is jokingly called the Röstigraben, the rösti ditch.

The Swiss argue about raw versus boiled potatoes the way other nations argue about politics. The Bernese method, potatoes boiled in their skins the day before and grated cold, is the most forgiving for a beginner, because the cake holds together and cooks evenly. The flip is the only moment of drama, and a plate makes it easy.

The potatoes

Ingredients

• 2 lb (900 g) waxy potatoes
• 1 tablespoon fine salt

The rösti

Ingredients

• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons (45 g) clarified butter

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