Switzerland · Regional favorite

Älplermagronen

Alpine herdsman's macaroni with potatoes and cheese

Macaroni and potatoes cooked in one pot, folded with cream and melted mountain cheese, topped with golden onions and served with a bowl of applesauce.

Älplermagronen

Älplermagronen, Alpine herdsman's macaroni, was born in the summer huts of the central Swiss Alps, where herders lived for months with their cattle and cooked with whatever they had carried up: pasta, potatoes, onions, cheese and a little bacon. It became a staple across the country, and is now served in mountain restaurants and family kitchens alike, always with applesauce on the side. The combination sounds odd and tastes exactly right, like cheese with a slice of apple.

It is a dish of almost no technique and great comfort, made in one pot in half an hour. It suits the end of a long, cold race day, and it suits a large crowd, since it multiplies without complaint. Swiss drivers have gone home to plates of this for generations, though history does not record whether Clay Regazzoni preferred it to risotto.

The applesauce

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the apples, water and sugar in the small saucepan, cover and cook over medium low heat for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring now and then. Mash roughly with a fork and stir in the cinnamon. Let it cool.

The onions and bacon

Ingredients

Method

  1. Cook the bacon in the skillet over medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring, until crisp. Lift it out onto a plate.
  2. Add the butter to the bacon fat, then the onions. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, for 12 to 15 minutes.

The macaroni

Ingredients

Method

  1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the salt. Add the potatoes and boil for 5 minutes. Add the macaroni and cook until the pasta is just tender, following the package time, usually 9 to 11 minutes. Drain well.
  2. Return the empty pot to low heat, add the cream and milk and warm them for 1 minute. Add the pasta and potatoes, then two thirds of both cheeses, the pepper and nutmeg, and fold gently for 1 to 2 minutes.
  3. Tip everything into the baking dish, scatter over the remaining cheese and bake for 8 to 10 minutes. Top with the bacon, the browned onions and the chives.

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