Kroppkakor are the pride of southeastern Sweden, of the island of Öland and the province of Småland, where Anderstorp's long airfield straight carried the Swedish Grand Prix through the 1970s. Each region insists on its own method. Öland cooks use mostly raw grated potato for grayish, chewy dumplings; in Småland they use boiled potato for a paler, softer dumpling. Both hide a filling of salted pork and onion spiced with allspice.

This is the Småland way, which is kinder to a beginner because the dough is easy to shape. The dumplings are simmered first and can then be fried in butter until golden, which many Swedes consider the best part. They are served with melted butter and lingonberries, and occasionally, in the more indulgent households, with cream as well.

The filling

Ingredients

• 10 oz (300 g) rimmat sidfläsk or salt pork
• 1 tablespoon (15 g) butter
• 1 medium yellow onion
• 10 allspice berries

The potato dough

Ingredients

• 2 1/4 lb (1 kg) floury potatoes
• 1 large egg
• 1 1/4 cups (160 g) all purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt

Shaping, simmering and frying

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons (30 g) butter
• 6 tablespoons (85 g) butter
• 3/4 cup (180 ml) lingonberries stirred with sugar, or lingonberry jam

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