Spain · Signature dish

Tortilla de patatas

Spanish potato and onion omelette

Potatoes and onion poached slowly in olive oil, folded into beaten eggs and set into a thick golden cake: the dish all of Spain agrees on, except about the onion.

Tortilla de patatas

Walk into any bar in Spain at eleven in the morning and there will be a tortilla on the counter, thick as a paperback, sold by the wedge or squeezed into a roll. It is only eggs, potatoes, olive oil and salt, with onion if you belong to the larger and louder half of the country that insists on it. The debate over onion is a national pastime that has outlasted several governments, and we come down, firmly but politely, on the side of onion.

The method is the magic. The potatoes are not fried crisp but cooked gently in a generous bath of olive oil until they are soft and sweet, then left to soak in the eggs before the whole thing is set in a pan and flipped with a plate. It is excellent hot, better warm and perhaps best at room temperature, which makes it the perfect race day dish whether you are in Barcelona, Madrid or your own sitting room.

The olive oil potatoes

Ingredients

Method

  1. Peel the potatoes. Cut each in half lengthwise, lay the flat side down and slice across into thin pieces about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick. Halve the onion from top to root, peel it and slice thinly. Put the potatoes and onion in a bowl and toss with the salt.
  2. Pour the olive oil into the skillet and heat over medium heat for about 3 minutes.
  3. Carefully add the potatoes and onion. They should be mostly covered by the oil. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes, turning them every few minutes with the spatula, lowering the heat if they start to brown. You are cooking them slowly, not frying them.
  4. Tip the potatoes and onion into the sieve over the heatproof bowl and let them drain for 2 minutes. Save the oil. Wipe out the skillet with a paper towel.

The tortilla

Ingredients

Method

  1. Beat the eggs and salt in the large bowl until no streaks of white remain. Add the warm potatoes and onion and stir gently, pressing a few of the potatoes so they break up. Leave to soak for 10 minutes.
  2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the saved oil in the clean skillet over medium heat for 1 minute. Pour in the egg mixture and spread it level. Cook for 1 minute, then turn the heat down to medium low. Run the spatula around the edge every minute or so to round off the sides, and give the pan a shake. Cook for 4 to 6 minutes.
  3. Take the skillet off the heat. Put the plate upside down over the skillet. With one hand flat on the plate and the other holding the handle with an oven mitt, turn the whole thing over in one quick, confident movement over the sink so the tortilla lands on the plate.
  4. Add 1 teaspoon oil to the skillet and return it to the heat. Slide the tortilla back in, loose side down. Tuck the edges under with the spatula to round them. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes for a juicy middle, or 4 to 5 minutes for fully set.
  5. Slide the tortilla onto a clean plate and let it rest for at least 5 minutes before cutting.

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