Spain · Trackside classic

Pinchos morunos

Andalusian spiced pork skewers

Cubes of pork shoulder marinated overnight in olive oil, garlic, cumin, coriander, paprika and oregano, threaded onto skewers and seared hot over charcoal, with lemon and bread to catch the juices.

Pinchos morunos

Walk past a bar terrace in Andalusia on a summer evening and you will smell pinchos morunos before you see them: small cubes of pork, stained red with paprika and fragrant with cumin, sizzling on skewers over a charcoal grill. The name means Moorish skewers, a nod to the North African and Arab spice traditions behind the marinade, and they are found across the south, in Extremadura and well beyond, at bars, street fairs and backyard barbecues.

Every bar and every region seasons them a little differently, but the outline is always the same: garlic, toasted cumin and coriander seed, sweet and a little hot pimentón, oregano and thyme, lemon and plenty of olive oil, with a long rest so the spices reach the center of the meat. Spain likes to keep a little fat on the pork for juiciness, and so should you; this is not a dish for the lean and nervous.

They are made for eating standing up, a skewer in one hand and a cold drink in the other, which is as close to a grandstand as a kitchen garden will ever get.

The marinade

Ingredients

Marinating and threading

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Grilling and serving

Ingredients

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