Spain · Regional favorite

Fabada asturiana

Asturian white bean stew with chorizo and morcilla

Big, buttery white beans simmered for hours with smoked chorizo, black pudding, cured pork and a thread of saffron, until the broth turns silky and orange gold.

Fabada asturiana

Asturias, on Spain's green and rainy north coast, is the home region of Fernando Alonso, and also of fabada, the stew it serves on cold days as the main meal of the day. It is built on fabes, large, pale, creamy white beans that Asturians have eaten since at least the sixteenth century, cooked slowly with the compango, the set of smoked and cured pork that goes with them: chorizo, morcilla, a piece of cured shoulder and a slab of salt pork. The word compango comes from the idea of a companion, and the meats are exactly that, lending smoke and richness to the beans and then being served alongside them.

The dish itself is younger than its ingredients; the first known written mention of fabada appeared in a newspaper in 1884. Asturian cooks have firm rules about it. The pot is never stirred, only shaken, so the beans stay whole; the simmer is the gentlest possible; and a splash of cold water is added now and then to calm the pot, a step known as scaring the beans. It is a stew of patience rather than skill, and like most long races, the result is decided by who refuses to rush.

Preparing the compango

Ingredients

The beans

Ingredients

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