Croquetas began as a thrifty way to use leftover ham or chicken, and became something close to a national obsession. Every bar in Spain has them on the counter, and every Spaniard is quietly certain their grandmother's were the best. The test is simple: the crumb coat should crackle and the inside should be so soft and creamy it barely holds its shape. Firm, stodgy croquetas are discussed in the same tone as a bad pit stop.

The secret is a thick béchamel cooked long enough to lose any taste of raw flour, then chilled until it can be shaped. That means making them the day before, which is exactly what you want on race day: the work is done, and frying a tray takes ten minutes between sessions.

The ham béchamel

Ingredients

• 6 tablespoons (85 g) unsalted butter
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 small onion
• 4 oz (115 g) jamón serrano
• 3/4 cup (95 g) all purpose flour
• 3 cups (720 ml) whole milk
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/4 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 pinch white or black pepper

Shaping, coating and frying

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup (60 g) all purpose flour
• 2 large eggs
• 1 1/2 cups (150 g) fine dry breadcrumbs
• 6 cups (1.4 liters) olive or sunflower oil

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