Spain · Signature dish

Cocido madrileño

Madrid chickpea and meat stew served in three courses

Madrid's great slow pot of chickpeas, beef, chicken, pork, chorizo and morcilla, served in three rounds: a golden noodle soup, then chickpeas with vegetables, then a platter of the meats.

Cocido madrileño

Cocido madrileño is one pot that becomes a whole meal. Chickpeas simmer for hours with beef shank, chicken, salt pork, ham and bones; chorizo and morcilla cook on the side so they do not stain the broth; and the result is served in three rounds that Madrileños call vuelcos, the tipping of the pot. First comes the strained broth with thin noodles, then the chickpeas with potatoes, carrots and cabbage, and finally the meats on a platter. Food historians trace it to the medieval slow cooked pots of Castile and to adafina, the Sabbath stew of Spain's Sephardic Jews.

It was the working lunch of Madrid's taverns in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries and has since risen all the way to royal menus without losing its manners. One of the city's oldest restaurants, open since 1870, still cooks it in individual clay pots over charcoal, and some taverns keep it for one day of the week. The rule for guests is simple: come hungry, pace yourself through the soup, and do not ask what is for dessert.

Madrid now has a Grand Prix of its own, and a cocido is the city's idea of hospitality. It needs a few hours of gentle simmering, almost all of it unattended, which suits a long morning of build up perfectly.

The pot: meats and chickpeas

Ingredients

Chorizo, morcilla and cabbage

Ingredients

First vuelco: the noodle soup

Ingredients

Second and third vuelcos: chickpeas and meats

Ingredients

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