Spain · Trackside classic

Bocadillo de calamares

Fried squid sandwich

Hot, crisp fried squid rings piled into a crusty roll with a squeeze of lemon: Madrid's most famous sandwich, eaten standing up and gone in minutes.

Bocadillo de calamares

Madrid is about as far from the sea as a Spanish city can be, which has never stopped it from claiming the fried squid sandwich as its own. The bars in the lanes around the Plaza Mayor have been selling them for generations: a soft but crusty roll, split and stuffed with squid rings fried in light batter, eaten at the counter with a small beer. Squid packed in ice traveled well from the coast, and Friday meat abstinence did the rest.

With Formula 1 now racing in Madrid, there is no more fitting trackside lunch. It needs only a few minutes of frying, and the purist version has nothing in it but squid and a little lemon. Some madrileños add alioli or mayonnaise; we give you both and leave the controversy to you.

The quick garlic mayonnaise (optional)

Ingredients

Method

  1. Whisk the mayonnaise, garlic, lemon juice and olive oil in the small bowl. Cover and leave in the fridge while you fry, so the garlic flavor spreads.

The fried squid

Ingredients

Method

  1. Rinse the squid tubes inside and out. Pull out and discard any clear, plastic like quill still inside. Slice across into rings about 1/2 inch (1 cm) wide. If you have the tentacles, keep them whole.
  2. Spread the rings on paper towels, cover with more towels and press firmly. Repeat with fresh towels until they feel only tacky, not wet.
  3. Pour oil into the pot to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm), leaving at least 2 inches (5 cm) of room above it. Clip on the thermometer and heat over medium high heat to 375°F (190°C).
  4. Mix both flours and the salt in the shallow dish. Toss a handful of squid rings in it until each is coated all over, then shake them in the sieve to knock off the excess.
  5. Lower one handful of rings into the oil with the slotted spoon. Fry for 60 to 90 seconds, stirring once so they separate. Lift out onto the paper towels and sprinkle at once with a pinch of salt. Let the oil return to 375°F (190°C) before the next batch.

The sandwiches

Ingredients

Method

  1. While the last batch fries, split the rolls lengthwise, leaving one long side attached like a hinge. Warm them in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 3 minutes if you like.
  2. Spread a little garlic mayonnaise inside each roll if using. Pile in the hot squid, squeeze lemon over it and close the roll.

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